Bill Granger, the owner and brains behind the Bills bistros, is renowned for his simple, delicious and easy recipes and his perfectly manicured blonde bouffant hair style. Having breakfast at Bills is a Sydney must do, like getting your photo taken in front of the Opera House, climbing the harbour bridge or getting in a brawl with a back packer at Bondi.
The menus are understated, expensive and full of wonderful flavours that will have you returning time and time again despite the long waits for tables and the big Bills bill at the end of your meal. I have been to all three bills restaurants more than once (sad I know). The Darlinghurst café is tucked into a cosy nook on a slanting street away from the hustle and bustle, the Surry Hills spot is right on Crown Street, a perfect place for people watching and the Woollahra venue (my favourite) is a hidden, but not-so-secret court yard with an open roof and large communal tables. Each Bills has their own vibe and charm, but they all have the same personality and the food remains consistent, almost to Subway standards. The service is always friendly although a little pompous and the décor it always reflective of Bill’s brand – light, bright, fresh, simple and organic.
Now, to the food, which is why you’re reading my rant. The breakfast is the beez kneez and home to the best avocado salsa I have ever had, with the exception of my own (I don’t mean to toot my town horn, but it ain’t bad). Bill seems to scramble an egg like no other (well, his chefs do anyway), they are creamy, fluffy and all prepared with free range organic eggs. Think folded, not beaten. But, there is a downdown fall, they don’t poach eggs?! Luckily their sweet corn fritters, crisp on the outside, juicy on the inside, provide a nice distraction from the pain of poached-eggless-morning – mind you, the meal would be even better with one. If eggs aren’t your thing, you’re in luck, there is plenty of options without. I recommendation would be the dark rye toast served with cream cheese and house made salmon gravlax served with lemon – it is fantastic filling, fresh, fishy food.
The Bitter: They don’t poach eggs! Surely a chef of Bills standard can boil some water and throw and egg in?
The Sweet: Corn fritters and salsa and flawless
The Damage: Expensive for breakfast – breakfast with all the trimmings and coffee will cost around $30